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In the Sabarkantha district of North Gujarat, where the Aravalli hills drape themselves in a blanket of green, lies a destination that is a confluence of history, spirituality, and nature—Polo Forest. Also known as Vijaynagar Forest, this is not merely a jungle, but a narrative of a lost empire, centred around centuries-old temples and the dense, mysterious wilderness that engulfs them. This blog will take you on a journey where you stand amidst the ruins of an ancient city that flourished between the 10th and 15th centuries, a city that nature has quietly adopted into its embrace.
🧠Polo: Where History Embraces Nature
The name 'Polo' is believed to originate from the Marwari word "Pol," meaning 'gate' or 'entrance'. This forest once served as a natural gateway to enter Rajasthan, making it a crucial centre for trade and spirituality. Today, however, it is renowned as an Eco-Tourism Destination due to its ancient temples and rich biodiversity.
There was a time when a prosperous city named Abhapuri stood here. Powerful dynasties such as the Pratiharas, Solankis, and Chaulukyas ruled over this region, each leaving an indelible mark of their architectural prowess. By the 15th century, the city was deserted for unknown reasons, after which the forest gradually enveloped its ruins. It is these ruins that make Polo Forest so unique—they seem to engage in a silent conversation with time amidst the tranquil music of nature.
🔱 The Deities of Polo Forest: Faith Carved in Stone
The soul of Polo Forest resides in its temples. These temples belong to both Hindu and Jain traditions, reflecting the religious tolerance and cultural richness of that era. These structures, carved out of sandstone, are prime examples of the Maru-Gurjara architectural style, a beautiful blend of the styles prevalent in Gujarat and Rajasthan.
1. Sharneshwar Mahadev Temple: Where Nandi Stands Taller Than Shiva
The most significant and majestic of the Polo temples is the Sharneshwar Mahadev Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. This temple is famous not just for its architecture, but also for its unique feature: the idol of Nandi is installed on a spire that is taller than the main Shiva lingam. According to local legends, this unusual setup is associated with the rule of the Pratihara kings.
The temple dates back to the 15th century and was once a three-story structure, surrounded by a fort-like wall. Although the ravages of time and nature have reduced it to ruins, its remaining portions still showcase exceptional craftsmanship. The intricate carvings on the outer walls, depicting gods and goddesses (such as Yama, Bhairava, Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva, Parvati), scenes of social life, elephants, swans, and flora, attest to its past grandeur.
The main structure of the temple comprises a Garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum), an Antarala (vestibule), a Gudhamandapa (closed hall), and a Nandi-Mandapa. Its pillars, featuring plain shafts and capitals with inverted lotus patterns, are characteristic of its style. Nearby, there is also a smaller temple dedicated to the four-armed Chamunda Mata.
2. Lakhena Na Dera: The Jain Marvel of 80 Pillars
For travellers with an affinity for Jainism, Lakhena Na Dera is an essential stop. It is said to have been built by the daughter of Lakha Vanjara. The architecture of this temple is in the Solanki style and is renowned for its more than 80 intricately carved pillars.
The magnificent Nritya Mandapa (dance hall) here is adorned with carvings of elephants and flowers, indicating that this site was not only a centre of worship but also of cultural activities. Dedicated to Jain Tirthankaras, these temples are a paradise for art lovers and archaeology enthusiasts. This temple complex tells the story of the affluent Jain community that once flourished in the region.
3. Surya Mandir (Sun Temple): Witness to the Wheel of Time
Remnants of an ancient temple dedicated to the Sun God are also found in Polo Forest, highlighting the significance of solar worship during that era. Although its ruins are more dilapidated than those of the other temples, its presence underscores the architectural and religious diversity of the area. The Sun Temples of that period often depicted the cycle of time and the cosmic order.
4. Sadevant-Savlinga Temples: A Tale of Love
These temples are linked to a local folklore, recounting the love story of Sadevant and Savlingi. This tale and the temples themselves lend the place not just religious significance but also an emotional and cultural depth. It shows how history, legends, and faith resonate together in this forest. The detailed sculptural work on these smaller shrines often portrays scenes from popular myths, further enriching the visitor's experience.
🌲 Into the Depths of the Woods: Where Nature is Worshipped
Apart from the temples, the biggest attraction of Polo Forest is its natural beauty. Spanning over approximately 400 square kilometres, this is a Dry Mixed Deciduous Forest that transforms into a lush green oasis after the monsoon (from August to February). The air is fresh, carrying the scent of wild herbs and damp earth, a stark contrast to the city's pollution.
1. A Sanctuary of Biodiversity
This forest is a natural sanctuary, home to a wide array of flora and fauna:
* Flora: Over 450 species of medicinal plants are found here, serving as a lifeline for the local tribal communities. The forest's canopy is a mix of teak, bamboo, and various flowering trees.
* Avifauna: Over 275 species of birds make it a fantastic destination for birdwatchers. During the winter, many migratory birds settle here, adding to the visual and auditory spectacle. Look out for the Indian Pitta or the Grey Hornbill.
* Wildlife: More than 30 species of mammals inhabit the area, including the Leopard, Hyenas, Sloth Bears, and Flying Squirrels (mainly visible at night). The dense undergrowth provides ideal habitat for these shy creatures.
2. The Harnav River and Dam
The Harnav River, flowing through the heart of the forest, adds tranquillity and life to the landscape. The dam built on the river is a popular picnic spot and offers a serene atmosphere. During the monsoon, the gushing water of the river and the captivating view of the dam provide an unforgettable experience for nature lovers. The river bed, when dry, reveals smooth stones polished by centuries of water flow.
3. Eco Points and Trekking Trails
Polo Forest offers several trekking trails and eco points, providing breathtaking views of the Aravalli mountain range. Spots like the Eco Point and the Selfie Point offer visitors the opportunity to capture the stunning natural scenery. The treks range from easy walks along the river to more challenging hikes up the surrounding hills, catering to different fitness levels.
📅 Planning Your Visit: When and How to See Polo
The best time to visit Polo Forest is after the monsoon and during the winter, which is typically from August to February. During this period, the forest is in its full greenery and vibrancy, and the weather is pleasant for trekking and sightseeing.
* Morning Magic: The early morning mist and the first rays of the sun on the temple ruins create a magical atmosphere.
* Evening Serenity: The view of the temples at sunset and the quiet environment offer profound peace to the mind.
Nearest City: The site is located about 145 km from Ahmedabad, making it an ideal Weekend Getaway. The drive itself is scenic, passing through rural landscapes.
Local Culture: The areas around Polo Forest are inhabited by tribal communities like the Kathodi, Garasiya Bhil, and Damor, whose lifestyles and art (such as making terracotta horses and intricate embroidery) further enrich the cultural heritage of the region. Engaging with the locals, often through organised cultural tours, can offer deep insights into their sustainable way of life intertwined with the forest.
📜 Polo Forest: Not Just Ruins, but a Philosophy
The temples of Polo Forest are not just stone ruins. They embody a philosophy that tells us how time erases everything, yet the seeds of art and faith survive for centuries under the guardianship of nature.
These temples, hidden deep within the jungle, are the silent witnesses to the grandeur of the past. They remind us of the importance of peeling back the layers of history and protecting our heritage. Every step in Polo Forest is a discovery—it is a journey where you simultaneously become an archaeologist, a naturalist, and a seeker.
The sheer volume of the ruins, though fragmented, speaks of a civilisation that poured its heart and soul into art and devotion. Imagine the bustling markets, the chanting in the mandapas, and the life that thrived here a thousand years ago. The jungle has reclaimed the noise, leaving behind only the profound silence of history.
Polo Forest also serves as a poignant reminder of nature's relentless power. The way tree roots have intertwined with temple walls, sometimes gently holding them together, sometimes slowly breaking them apart, is a powerful visual metaphor for the cycle of creation and destruction. This delicate balance is the core essence of the Maru-Gurjara style architecture found here, which was built to withstand time but ultimately surrendered to the forest.
If you are looking for a serene and educational destination, far from the hustle and bustle of city life, where history, spirituality, and nature converge, the mysterious temples of Polo Forest await you. To rejuvenate your soul, engage in a dialogue with these ancient stones and the tranquil greenery.
Concluding Note: The beauty of Polo Forest lies in its forgotten state—a lost city that nature has molded into a new life. It is a story that every Indian traveller should listen to.
